New Parts Available

Why tube shocks rock

July 5, 2024 by bugeyeguy

This week, we performed a tube shock conversion on this cool Bugeye called ‘Cinnamon.” We did this because this is a performance car with a performance driver, and the lever shocks were not keeping the tire on the road uniformly while going over bumps, particularly during spirted driving. It’s really hard to have two mated lever shocks (they often have different damping left and right). Tube shocks are always uniform so you get symmetrical performance left and right.

The tube shocks will better dampen the bumps and ensure the tire contact patch is always optimized, and the increased negative camber will also improve handling. Reliability and longevity, as well as control and performance… these are the benefits of our front tube shock conversion kit. And Cinnamon will enjoy these benefits going forward!

We go through tons of lever shocks in our building.

Great shocks are required for a wonderful ride in any Spridget, but the original lever shocks are a serious wear item, constantly aging-out and leaking. Even the rebuilt ones are not as good as they used to be, and we’ve had to struggle to find a great and reliable source for the lever shocks we sell.

*Should you want to keep your stock Bugeye stock, we do offer the best rebuilt front lever shocks available, which you can purchase by clicking* *the above photo.*

I love the way the correct lever shocks ride. They are the perfect balance of performance and comfort on a tiny car that needs all the comfort it can get… but lately we’ve been moving in the direction of this tube shock conversion simply because it eliminates the dependency on the old-fashioned lever shock design. While these are a little more pricey than the lever shocks, if you think about changing your lever shocks every three years or so (which has sadly become the norm), it’s a great way to economize in the long haul because the tube shocks should last 10 to 20 years.

*The front tube shock conversion upon installation.* *Hey, want slotted and vented brake rotors? Click here to get yours!*

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Nefarious needles

May 24, 2024 by bugeyeguy

Stuck float bowl needles can stop your car from starting.

A carburetor fuel bowl works a lot like a toilet. As the fuel level in the bowl lowers, a float needle lowers along with it, allowing fuel to flow in from the fuel line and fill it back up as the carburetor uses it. Once the fuel level is full, the needle is pushed up into a tapered seat, where it will rest until it needs to allow fuel back in.

*A float needle performing its function properly, lowering in tandem with the float as the fuel level in the bowl drops.*

While not a problem inherent to storage of your Bugeye, long periods of rest can certainly contribute to a stuck float needle or two. What generally happens is a small amount of “gunk” gets on the tip of the float needle (the source of this gunk is unclear but a lot of people connect it to ethanol in today’s fuels) and makes the tip sticky, which makes it hang up in its seat.

*A stuck float needle like shown above shuts the flow of fuel off to the carburetor, essentially plugging the fuel line.* *Notice how the entire needle assembly is stuck upward and not hanging out of it’s seat as in the first picture above*.

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I guess that’s why they call it the fuse

May 10, 2024 by bugeyeguy

Bugeye Sprites employ Lucas electrical systems. While Lucas has a bit of a checkered reputation among British car enthusiasts, Bugeyes tend to be mostly exempt from typical electric pitfalls due to their simplicity. When installed and maintained correctly, a Frogeye electrical system can provide many miles of stout performance and trouble-free operation. A big part of that is the fuse block.

*This is an example of a factory-installed fuse block, currently present on 501, the first production Bugeye Sprite.*

The entirety of a Bugeye’s electrical system runs through a fuse block that is smaller than a box of crayons. In fact, the entire car employs only TWO glass fuses. One glass fuse protects all of the components that require a keyed ignition source; this includes such items as the fuel gauge, heater, wipers, flasher, brake lights, electric fuel pump (if so equipped), and of course, the ignition system. The other fuse is for the items requiring constant power from the battery, namely, the horn and the headlights. As all of these systems run through this interface, it is absolutely critical that the fuse block be in good working order.

In the photo above you will find two fuse blocks. The one on the left is a brand new fuse block, while the one on the right is an original block we recently removed from a client’s car during a re-wire. You can see how corroded all of the terminals, screws, and even the fuses are. Corroded electrical connections do not create very good contact, which can cause resistance in the circuit, leading to intermittent operation, or in some cases, no operation at all, which could potentially leave you stranded on the side of the road.

If you see that your fuse block and/or fuses are corroded like this, change your fuse block! In the video below, we discuss fuse blocks in further detail and how they work:

Should you need to change your fuse block, we offer new ones in our catalog, as well as a full line of electrical components to suit your needs! Click the photos below to check out a few of the electrical parts we have available or click here for our complete catalog!

*Dashboard turn signal indicator light (Bugeye)*

*Bugeye Sprite fuse block (screw terminals)*

*Complete Bugeye wiring harness (dip switch & headlight wiring sold separately)*

*Complete headlight wiring kit (all Bugyes/Spridgets)*

*Generator/alternator with dummy regulator (negative ground cars ONLY)*

Derelict Door Seals

May 10, 2024 by bugeyeguy

Door seals are such an important part of a Bugeye interior. They help the doors to close properly and prevent rattling during normal operation, and offer a little bit of color to spruce up your interior. Too often, we see cars come to us that have door seals that are faded, worn, torn, improperly installed, or are just flat-out missing.

*This door seal was originally bright red. Time has taken its toll. Time for new ones!*

It’s paramount that your Bugeye is fitted with the correct door seal, and that it is installed properly. Too fat a seal and your doors will no longer align. And without improper termination of the ends, you end up with a frayed cut that is in plain view each and every time you open the door. The trick here is to use seals of the correct thickness (which we have for sale here), and to properly terminate the ends. They knew this at the factory, and in the video here, you can see how to properly terminate the ends so the cuts are not visible.

We sell our door seal kit with clips so you can secure the product underneath your dash trim, as shown, to hide the front cut. The video above also shows you how to terminate the back cut behind the panel. Affixing your door seal this way gives you a wonderful finished look, just like what would have come from the factory!

In the video above, you can also see our carpet kit, which features multiple adjustments to make it fit far better than the kits that are offered by other suppliers. We have panel kits available too, in black, red, green, and blue. Top bow holders are also in stock and available. Click the photos below to order!

*Bugeye Sprite interior panel kit (multiple colors available)*

*Complete carpet set with trunk mat (Bugeye)*

*Top bow holder/storage kit (Bugeye only)*

Flip-forward basics

April 12, 2024 by bugeyeguy

Bugeye bonnets are notoriously heavy and cumbersome, and as such can be hard to open, especially if you have a bad back. By adding our flip-forward nose kit, you can not only make the engine compartment infinitely more accessible for service (all but eliminating the painful bonnet “head bonk” inherent to Bugeye ownership), but also make the nose much easier to open and close!

The above video explains the ins and outs of flip-forward Bugeye noses; how to open and close them securely, how you can add rigidity to a floppy nose, and a basic overview of what comes in our flip-nose kits. All of the parts mentioned in the video are available for purchase, which you can do by clicking the photos below, or click here for our complete parts catalog!

*Bonnet “X” bracing* *(1 kit does both sides)*

Dashing

January 26, 2024 by bugeyeguy

There is no more impactful cockpit restoration opportunity than the Sprite dashboard. These come to us in an infinite variety of “flavors”. Most are hand crafted by our former selves, back when we were young and function was all that mattered. I know I made a lot of dumb decisions back in those days (and I suspect I am not alone). Thus, there is a wealth of padded and over-drilled dashboards out there, often full of improvised switches and work-arounds.

Before: though certainly not the worst we have seen, the dash in this Bugeye was padded at some point in its life (stock was un-padded) and had an extra hole added for a battery cut-off switch, which was no longer needed. The radio hole also needed to be welded as it lacked metal support for the vinyl covering that had previously been installed.

This particular dashboard was padded, with a large cut out switch on the dash, and with a couple of extra holes hidden under the padding.

In this series of photos you can see how we restored this client’s dashboard back to stock. It is beautiful. The dash bar above the dash is also properly covered now in black. The entire effect is stunning, and the transformation very successful. Now, this car looks right, and restored to its original glory.

Upon removal of the dash from the car, all of the gauges, cables, and switches were removed, and the weathered old vinyl and thick layer of padding glued to the face was stripped away. This revealed what we needed to fix. Namely, the radio hole needed to be filled (which has already been done in this photo), one hole needed to be filled-in adjacent to the steering wheel, and another needed to be welded and re-drilled for the washer pump.

The backside of the radio hole repair. After all of the holes were repaired on the dash, we sandblasted the entire dash, added a layer of body filler to smooth out any surface imperfections, painted the whole dash black, and carefully installed a brand new vinyl cover.

After restoration, the dashboard got new cables, switches, and knobs. A new washer pump, new heater and washer switches with knobs, and the original ignition switch are installed already; a new turn signal switch, new starter and choke cables, and a new original-face combination gauge and original speedometer, tachometer, and fuel gauge.

The finished product! A combination of new parts, really nice original ones, and a lot of skill and tender loving care have taken this dashboard to the next level! Let us do this to your dashboard. Call us for details or click here!

If you would like your car restored to this level, please give us a call. We’ll be happy to pick it up and bring it to our shop and transform your Bugeye into the car of your dreams, just as we are in the process of accomplishing with this client’s car. Alternatively, if you would like us to restore your dashboard back to its original perfection, please give us a call for more information or click here to view in our catalog!

We also offer similar services for cockpit trim and windshield frames. Click on the photos below to check out each of these services and to get the wheels in motion on your restoration!

Windshield frame and shanchion refinishing service

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