I thought you might like to see some photos of our new Super Sprite “Sage” as it’s coming together, with a powerful 1380 Oselli Engine and Ford five speed transmission, as well as rear disc brakes. Terry is doing an awesome job building this car from the ground up, and someone is going to get a very special machine!
[Read more…] about Sage takes shape!
2023 will probably be written about as the year that online auctions became an even more massive force in classic car sales. More new online platforms are emerging every month for people to purchase antique cars, sight unseen, while relying on social media to vet their vehicles.
It seems that no matter how hard we try, every classic English sports car leaks oil. I’ve seen many forum posts over the years where people claim to make a leak-free car, and certainly some of them leak very little, but it just seems inevitable that these old cars will leak, no matter how hard you try. And even if you stop them from leaking, it seems just a matter of time before they start leaking once again.
In this post, I wanted to show you some photos of a particular Bugeye engine that just arrived in our shop. This one is leaking more than usual, and in this case it makes a lot of sense to try to reduce or stop the leaking all together. (We’re always optimistic, but we’re also realistic).
Of note in this case is the head gasket leak. We’ve added ultraviolet dye to this engine, so you see a bright green trace wherever there are leaks (a UV kit makes it easy to see exactly where we have leaks). Take a look at the green trace on the left side of the engine. This is directly in line with the oil galley that feeds the head up through the rocker arm pedestal, and the oil as it travels from the block up to the head sometimes leaks at this location. Unfortunately, once it starts leaking, you have to change the head gasket.
We will remove the head to inspect. it could be a bad head gasket or the head is not flat (or block) or too much combustion pressure with an excessively high compression ratio, for example. Or maybe the oil pressure relief valve is not working or set too high… these are all things we will investigate when we get the engine out of the car.
[Read more…] about Oil Toil95% of nose fit adjustments on Sprites happen well after the paint has been applied. In the case of this particular car that we are building for a customer in California, we are maximizing the nose fit now before the media blasting and stripping and bodywork begins. This car will be a British racing green rocket turn up in the style of my personal car Gumby, and it all starts with a nice nose job.
In the video above, I explain the procedures with which we are repairing decades of poor nose fit on Arnold and the steps we take to repair a nose that’s been bonked by a bumper!
We handed Terry an entire skid full of electric car parts and pieces, and invited him to build us an electric car. That’s exactly what he’s doing.
In these pictures, you can see the results. Kenny built some stout mounts, and Terry is now making it happen, and soon the electrons will flow. Like a kid on Christmas morning with a new boxed train set, he’s been building a wonderful diorama all week long.
I would like to think an electric car kit would be an easy thing to put together and sell, but at this point in the evolution of the conversion industry, we have a long way to go. Without a master technician like Terry, I’m not convinced electric car kits are a reality for an average DIY consumer. We’d much prefer to convert your oil leaker here; in fact, we’ll be starting on a ’74 Midget next, and if you’d like us to convert your classic, give us a call and we will be happy to discuss the particulars. That said, we are working on making a kit that adds the necessary pieces so that the average sports car owner has a fighting chance. But it’s complicated.
EV classic car conversions will be an important part the future of our company, as is restoration and modification of gas powered classic cars (just like 501, which we are also out driving around, restored to perfectly accurate, original ICE specs).
I’m certain that there is a large contingent of petrol heads out there who hate these electric things, but at the same time, we’re just delighted to be able to offer a different point of entry for anybody who loves old English cars and wants modern convenience. And convenient they are- this is the ultimate, reliable antique British car. While it still has a few obvious original systems, all the new battery stuff is designed to work forever without a whole lot of maintenance. In fact, we’re using Tesla batteries and expect great results from them. In these photos, you can see the electric heater that we’ve built into a Smiths heater box, on top of a modified original heater shelf.
You can also see the battery disconnect/kill switch under the dashboard that allows us to shut off and pin the switch in the off position for service and safety. At the moment, there are no batteries in the car, so nothing is live, but we’re laying out all the systems and pieces. I’m sure you’ll agree that this is a very tidy and clean layout. We’ve designed this, our third electric vehicle, so that it can be serviced in the future should any thing need replacement. Quick-disconnect fittings will be in place on the battery boxes, should they ever need to come out of the car.
Smooth power, no vibration, no leaks and no carbuetors. Do you need the distinctive exhaust note? Time will tell!
Bugeye tachometers (and their drivelines) often break. (So does any mechanically driven tachometer on any old British car). This continues to be one of the more annoying recurring problems that we end up having to sort. This week, we had a failure in the field from one of our customers and I thought we would use this as a teaching opportunity so that we can all try to make these kooky systems work more effectively in the future.
We haven’t seen this car (just photos), but there are a number of causes that could be at play here, because you have a chain of springs and sprockets trying to translate information from the generator all the way to the tachometer, and if any piece in that chain is not up to code, you can have a failure such as what you see pictured here. This particular tach drive exploded (which doesn’t happen often) but we have a few thoughts as to why this occurred. Note that it was operational in the field for almost eight months (since October of 2022) and had about 200 miles before it exploded.
The first thing that can fail is the tach drive itself. Often these are not well-lubricated, especially if it is an older unit that has been installed for a long time. It’s a good idea to take yours apart and fill it with red grease. It’s very easy to do; most tach drive gearboxes (except for early cars) have two small fasteners holding the two halves of the box together, and separate easily so you can pack the box with grease. This should be a part of your routine maintenance schedule. It’s recommended that you should do this once every five years or so. But I don’t think that’s related to why this particular drive failed, as it was a brand new gearbox that was only about eight months old.
The bigger issue seems to be with the interface between the cable and drive . You need to make sure that the cable doesn’t protrude too deeply into the tach gear box because when you tighten the knurled ring, you’ll be putting great deal of force on that inner Cable.
This force can bend the cable end and cause it to make a concentric arc with each revolution, which adds stress to the system; if the NTSB was at the scene of this failure, I would guess their findings would suggest an overtightened knurled ring on a cable the protruded too far into the tach drive. We suspect over tightening because we see a damage on the knurled ring, perhaps from (over) tightening with large channel pliers.
It’s also important to inspect the interface between the tach drive and the generator. We also need to make sure that this junction does not protrude excessively into the generator, and also that the two units mate neatly. Sometimes you need a spacer to support the tach drive in the generator, so it’s worth looking at this mating point.
In the case of this particular tach drive explosion, you can also see a nick on the brass nut, indicating that it was also tightened aggressively, perhaps too aggressively. That can become a problem when there is a void between the tach drive inner spindle and the end of the tach drive inside the generator. Here’s where it’s sometimes helpful to add a spacer, to support the tach drive more effectively.
One other important issue is that the tachometer itself can get gummed up. When this occurs, more torque is required in order to drive their mechanism effectively. If that’s the case, it will stress the cable that is unable to turn the gummy tachometer, and this too can contribute to undue stress on the system, which could lead to an explosion of a tach drive, but more often will lead to the failure of a tach cable. So it’s best to remove your tachometer from the dashboard and actuator to see if it is excessively stiff; you can use the end of an old tachometer cable mounted in a drill to check this. Spin it counterclockwise to see if the gauge is gummy or binding. It might be easier to do this with your fingertips with the nipple rather than to use a drill where you can’t actually feel if the gauge is extra stiff.
So when diagnosing a non-functioning, poorly-functioning, or exploded tachometer circuit, it’s helpful to understand the system as a whole. Of course, we offer electronic tachometers should you want to eliminate the mechanical link altogether, or if you prefer, you can send us your gummed-up old tachometer to be rebuilt, a service we are happy to provide for you! Call or email for details.
Click the photos below to get the tachometer components you need to get your rev counter back up and running, or click here for our complete catalog!
